Canals, Concerts, and the Concertgebouw

Oh, I apologize for not finishing my travels, as it is long overdue. I'll try to finish up the posts from Europe in the next few days and then illustrate them with pictures. (In about a week, be sure to go back to the beginning posts to get the link for pictures from that city!)

OK, where I left off...I was sleeping in late, eating lots of cheese, and playing with the cat, Mrs. Morris...right. Ah, and my journal tells me that I have hit the first of August! (Just for some temporal context.) David had tickets for us for the next two nights at the Concertgebow, one of the top three music halls in the world for acoustics. (Boston Symphony Hall being one of the others! We are so spoiled.) So included in my usual travels to churches and museums in the two days, much time will be spent on the glorious concerts we saw and the glorious music that we heard.

I started off my lesiurely day with the Theater Museum, another beautiful canal house whose gem, I thought, was a giant 18th century toy theater that one man insisted on having built in his home so he could display his love for theaters and his knowledge of technical mechanisms. He employed two scenic artists to build thousands of pieces for his theater, and the museum displays them all beautifully. I believe everyone should have a toy theater to play with. From there I tried to see the Nieuwe Kerk, but it was under construction, so instead I watched the warm up for some international high jumping challenge. Thinking I would try my luck at the Oude Kerk, which is smack dab in the middle of the red light district, I walked through the distinctive, and to me, very sad haze of neon glow (which is all I will say about the red light district) to the nice and spacious Oude Kerk, and then quickly out again. My next church stop was a true gem, the Amstelkring Museum, or Our Lord in the Attic Chapel When the Protestants were in the majority, they prevented the Catholics from having churches that were well pronounced out in the open. To get around this law, Catholic congregations started meeting in large rooms of canal houses (which are never very big) in secret. But this one congregation raised the money to buy two side by side canal houses and converted the top few floors into a proper Catholic church. While one winds up the narrow staircases, one expects a simple room with pews and maybe an elaborate pulpit. But one would be terribly wrong. I mean, when have the Catholics done anything "simple" when it comes the display of their churches? (I point you back to Chartres and the Vatican.) After climbing the stairs, one enters a huge long room with a gorgeously decorated interior, large gleaming chandeliers, and an intricately carved altar complete with retracting pulpit nesting in the wall. One looks up beyond the lights to a second floor (!) complete with benches and a gorgeous organ. Then one remembers that one is in the top floor of a tiny canal house. Amazing. Practicing in secret, I think not.

On David's suggestions, I walked down to the Damraacht for a canal boat tour. I love boats and canals, and it was a gorgeous day. The landscape is so different from the water. We drove through most of the canal network to all the different neighborhoods. On my way back, I couldn't resist stopping at the Kaas Kamer, the cheese shop David always went to. I was in Heaven. Of course, the local stuff is Dutch Gouda (which I love), so I asked one of the guys what he would suggest, and we picked out a good cheese for a preconcert snack. I then...and I had to do it...bought a wheel of cheese. Granted, it is small. I couldn't figure out how to get one of those massive wheels home...but if I could have, you know I would have. So a small wheel of gouda from Amsterdam will have to do. Hopefully I can keep it long enough for it to make it to a special cheese party later in the year. Mmm...cheese.

OK, concert time! The concertgebow is a GORGEOUS concert hall. Absolutely gorgeous. And we had prime seats on the balcony on house left overlooking the celli. Perfect. Tonight's program was brought to us by the Scottish Chamber Orchestra who performed as a chamber orchestra, I think, should...standing (save the celli!) and sans conductor. It was amazing how they interacted and moved together. Mozart, Haydn, and Beethoven. Just amazing! And they had a piano soloist who was good that he had to an encore. Luckily we get to come back tomorrow!

Before the second concert, I decided to take a day trip outside the city to Haarlem. Had I come earlier in the year, the town would be overrun by visitors for the tulip season, but luckily for me, it was quite quiet and charming, much like Brugge. I started off at the Frans Hall Museum (I am still in love with Dutch painting) and rushed over to the Cathedral for an organ concert. The organ might be beautiful, but the playing was atrocious. Maybe it was the pieces he chose...maybe the thing is out of tune...but oh my gosh, what terrible music. There was an imbalance of his hands, so it sounded like a CLOMP, stomp, CLOMP, stomp on the keys that gave everyone a dissonant sea sickness. After perusing the grave stones underfoot and admiring the cathedral, I shopped around the town for some more good cheese and a gift for David. (Remember Chevre d'Or for aforementioned cheese party.) Made my train connections back and munched on cheese before heading out to the Concertgebeow.

This time, the program was the Australian Youth Orchestra. At first, David and I were a little skeptical, but after they started playing, we were, along with everyone else in the hall, totally blown away! They were absolutely amazing! It was a such a huge sound that filled the hall; I really could get a sense of the fantastic acoustics. They started off with a Ravel and ended with a Bartok, both of which completely entranced the audience. They also had a pianist, only this time, he was 21, had played all over the world, and was really one of the best musicians I have ever been in the presence of. After the Rachmoninov, he had to do two encores to appease the applause, one with the orchestra, and the other solo. My jaw dropped to the ground. I never really like piano pieces, but this was stunning. After the incredible momentum build of the Bartok, the orchestra was cheered onto doing two full piece encores, and kept up the energy beautifully. I couldn't believe it. I wish I had done an orchestra like that in high school. Wow.

Of coures, when you are all hyped up from a concert or play, you can't just go home. So David and I went across the street to a wonderful restaurant and got the chef's special series of small entrees that you see on TV, but never actually find a restaurant that does it. It was great! (And suprisingly filling!) I leave tomorrow for Brussels, as David has gotten me really excited to see it before I leave. So here I will say a huge thank you to David! You are one of the most hospitable, fun, and amazing people I've ever met! Thank you for taking me in, cooking for me, and showing me around your beautiful city! I can't wait to come back! And if you are ever in my part of the world, please let me know!

And with that, goodnight Amsterdam!